Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Cuervo y Sobrinos since Havana 1882

Men's Esplendidos Dual Time
A timepiece born from the workbenches of Cuervo y Sobrinos evoke a sense of Caribbean languorousness marked by deep blue skies, caressing ocean breezes and the slowed passage of time with a hint of exotic excitement. The timepiece carries the mark of its birthplace: The Havana of 1882.

Havana of 1882 was a place of extreme culture where scholars,navigators, explorers, tourists flocked to soak up the Caribbean sun and the rich culture.  Of course with a long list of aristocratic clientele and people of discretion disembarking on the shores of Havana, the citizens of Havana made sure to provide luxurious accommodations, excellent service, mouthwatering cuisine and  products crafted, to utter perfection, imbued with the spirit of Havana.

Havana 1882
It was in this rich bustling arena, Amando Rio y Cuervo and his brothers poured much energy into  their Uncle Ramon's watchmaking business - hence the current name of the company " Cuervo y Sobrinos" - "Cuervo and Nephews". The store was located on Havana's Fifth Avenue where discerning visitors purchased fashionable timepieces and other beautiful things. The clocks and watches they produced were of exceptional craftsmanship,  mechanical movement mastery, design and functionality.  Over the years, their fame spread, and the desire for watches and clocks produced by La Casa (the house) grew.  This prompted Cuervo y Sobrinos to open more locations in Pforzheim, Baden, Germany; on the rue Mezley in Paris and at the centre of the watchmaking world- La Chaux-de-Fonds. By the end of the 19th century, Cuervo y Sobrino's timepieces were dubbed "Pearl of Carribean". By the 1940's Cuervo y Sobrino's was known as one of the most prestigious brands in the world of Horology.  Their fame spread and soon famous people were visiting "La Casa' to purchase exceptional classic timepieces of their own.  Noted individuals such as Einstein, Churchill, Hemmingway, Gable are just some of the names in Cuervo y Sobrinos historical record - its 'golden book" who visited "La Casa".

Now you can have the opportunity of owning a Cuervo y Sobrinos Elegant Timepiece at THE WATCHERY. A distinguished taste in watches.

Friday, October 7, 2011

TAG Heuer Wins Alto Relojeria Mexico "Best Concept Watch" Award at SIAR

The TAG Heuer Mikrotimer Flying 1000 Concept Chronograph wins " Best Concept Watch" Award at the SIAR (Salon Internacional de Alto Relojeria).  This was Tag Heuer's Second Award at this event - in 2008, Tag Heuer won "Chronograph of the year" for its Grand Carrera Calibre 36 RS. 

The Mikrometer Flying 1000 Concept Chronograph, unveiled at BaselWorld 2011, is recognized for being the world's first mechanical chronograph concept timepiece to track time to 1/1000th of a second -125 times more accurate than any other chronograph timekeeper. This incredible precision is enabled by a chronograph movement that beats at 3,600,000 vibrations per hour (500 hertz). The Mikrotimer Flying 1000 Concept Chronograph utilizes the same concept as the TAG Heuer Carrera Mikrograph 1/100 second Chronograph - which I blogged about in much detail back in January 2011

"The Carrera Mikrograph has two distinct balance wheels, one for the watch itself, and one exclusively for the chronograph. This distinction allows for greater precision in the chronograph function as the chronograph does not depend on the watch for the time base (as with other chronograph models), but allows for exclusive chronograph function without the interference of the watch function"

he 45mm case is crafted from titanium carbide, which is extremely hard (9-9.5 mohs), strong and scratch resistant ceramic material. In addition, the watch case is extremely resistant to corrosion and has a melting point of 3,100C. This material is mostly used in drill bits and other industrial tools, and is still very new to the watch industry. The sapphire crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating bringing any reflection from the sun down to zero. The open case back is affixed with sapphire crystal so one can view the Tag Heuer in house movement beating at two very different rates - the Chronograph beating at a whopping 3,600,000 vph and the watch beating at 28,000 vph. The watch has a 42 hour power and a water resistance of 100 meters.

Tag Heuer is constantly striving for better precision, the ability to find winners in neck to neck motor races. Races which in the past would have been a tie, but are now just fractions of a second apart. Tag Heuer's dedication to motor racing has fueled its determination to eradicate confusion at the finish line and pin point a winner at the smallest of margins.

The Mikrotimer Flying 1000 Concept Chronograph, will soon be concept no more, at the end of this year, this remarkable timepiece will be commercialized. 

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Rado In White

Rado Ceramica White.
Rado has always evoked visions of black super hard ceramic watches.  The vision has faded, however, as Rado has added pure white watches to four of its collections.

Rado's collections in white come as no surprise, since white is the current color fashion trend. The white ceramic watches still uphold the same hardness, which makes Rado look brand new year after year after year.  In fact a person showed me his Rado watch he bought 30 years ago, and it still looked liked he had placed it on his wrist for the very first time.
Rado Inegral Jubilé
The Rado Ceramica White gives the appearance of ethereal elegant softness, however, do not be fooled, Rado's white watches are as hard and as resilient as its black counterparts. After all Rado is the company who in 1960, produced the first scratch proof watch: The Rado DiaStar.
Rado's modern version of the Rado DiaStar is the  Rado D-Star, which I must say looks incredible in white. The Rado D-Star is crafted from high-tech ceramics with 36 small diamonds on the dial. The watch has a fresh sporty look.  In fact the design of this watch  would look great in any color.
Rado D-Star
The Rado Centix Jubilee has a delicate elegance.  Its elegance is in its simplicity: A round smooth dial, long sweeping hands and a smooth uncluttered dial. 

Rado Centrix Jubile
Rado's focus has been on the hardness and scratch resistant quality of its watches.  In 1996 its Vision 1 Watch partly comprised of crushed diamonds made it into the Guinness Book of Records as the "Hardest Watch Ever".  Since then Rado has turned to cutting edge nanotechnology and its use of High Tech Diamond to produce its hardest watch - the V10K - which is today's world's hardest watch.
The watch name stands for 10,000 Vickers- the ultimate value of hardness- the standard set for natural diamonds.
Thus it is incredible, that a company who produces the worlds hardest watch can produce one of the most elegant white timepieces on the market today.  Rado's vision is truly a vision of today and tomorrow.
Purchase a Rado watch and purchase a lifelong companion which will live up to its integrity forever.

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

A Look at Omega's Silicon Balance spring

My fascination with watches extends far beyond the aesthetic "wow" factor, but penetrates deep into the bowels of the movement.  Every component is an entire system unto itself, crafted to its own unique perfection, receiving feedback and giving feedback in a complex transfer and stabilization of energy.  A timepiece is better than the sum of its parts providing extreme, efficiency, competency and accuracy in time display; however, as the saying goes: " A chain is only as strong as its weakest link."
A watch with a weakness in any  component will confound the movement, thus the quest for optimum materials for watch components  is one of the branches of research at the forefront of watch innovations. 
Omega has used its technology to develop a unique material for its balance spring: Silicon.
  A balance spring is one of the most important components for the accuracy of a time piece.  The Balance Spring , for example the  flat spiral or Bregeuet over-coil (extremely visible and elevated in MB&F Legacy Machine No.1 Watch-see inset),  is attached to the balance wheel and controls the rate at which the wheels turn, effecting the rate at which the hands on the dial turn. On the balance spring, a regulator adjusts and regulates the speed maintaining time tracking precision.
  The Balance Spring is extremely sensitive to shocks (fast jagged motions and abrupt stops-such as during a game of tennis or if inadvertently dropped) as well as to magnetic fields.  If the balance spring is exposed to these factors, it may sustain damage or displacement causing the efficiency of the timepiece to dramatically decrease.
Since the balance spring is critical for precision, much attention has focused on increasing the resilience of this component.
Omega has increased the Balance Spring's shock absorbency and stability as well as eradicating the effects of any magnetic field by crafting the Balance Spring in silicon.   See video below

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Mexico City Hosts 5th Annual Salon Internacional de la Alta Relojeria (SIAR) 2011

Harry Winston Opus Eleven
The 5th Annual Salon Internacional de la Alta Relojeria (SIAR) starts today at the Four Seasons Hotel in Mexico City's and runs to October 6th. SIAR 2011 attracts fine watch affeciendos  from Latin America, and all over the world.  45 watch companies participating in this show.Exciting conferences by renowned watch brands cover subjects such as Bell & Ross Clock & Military History; Girard-Perregaux explores its 220 years of watchmaking; Baume & Mercier unveils a brand new chapter in its watchmaking legacy; Cartier unveils a new type of complication: the Astroregulateur; Franc Vila enlightens the crowd with a look at nanotechnology in today's luxury and many more.
Ladoire Mr Race
The Fondation Salon de la Haute Horlogerie is presenting an intriguing historically-themed exhibition "Mechanical horology from its origins to the present day." The exhibition traces mechanical time measurement all the way back to the thirteenth when  weight-driven clocks  tracked the time to "Grande Complications" wristwatches. The presentation is accompanied by 60 historic timepieces on loan from the Fondation Salon de la Haute Horlogerie partner brands and Swiss Museums. In addition the FHH will display a current watch for each of its partner brands.  

Listed below are the brands partaking in this exhibition.

Hautlence HL 2.2

Hublot MP-02 Key of Time Watch

Monday, October 3, 2011

Breitling Releases a New Look for its Colt Collection

Colt Chronograph II
The Breitling Colt is synonymous with high functionality and extreme durability.  A timepiece capable of withstanding the  harsh rigors of extreme atmospheric conditions. The new COLT CHRONOGRAPH II, COLT 44 and COLT 33 (for women)  have a slightly more rugged angular and less cluttered looking bezel than its predecessors. The bezel is accentuated by a polished and satin brushed finish, directing the wearers attention to the dial. The indentations on the outer edges of the dial extends to the case providing a new sportier look to the model.  In addition, the Arabic Numerals on all three new models have a new rounder font, which was designed especially for this collection and exudes a futuristic appeal to the dial.  
Colt 44
The Colt Chronograph II does not have the signature  Breitling wings, probably to utilize the space for the sub dials; however, I think, this gives the dial a slightly more generic look. The stark white sub dials are well placed providing maximum read-out potential in less than optimum conditions.
The Colt 44 has a high efficiency water resistance able to withstand depths of 500 meters (1650 feet) made possible by a screw-locked crown and extra thick glare-proof (both sides)  sapphire crystal.  
Colt 33
The Colt 33 is the 33mm Ladies Version distinctive by its sporty elegance. The entire case is polished and the upper bezel surface is satin brushed.  The dial is available is many elegant shades exquisitely  marked ,beneath the 12 'o'clock, by the Breitling logo.  The Colt 33 is also available with a gemset bezel.  The Colt 33, like the men's Colt 44, has a water resistance of 500 meters (1650 ft) - quite a unique feature for a Ladies Watch.
All three models are powered by a SuperQuartz™ movement Certified as a Chronometer -  meaning the movement has passed the battery of  rigorous standardized  tests conducted by Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute or COSC.  Click here to learn more about the Chronometer (not to be confused with the original navigation Chronometers used by sea vessels centuries ago to determine longitude - however if you are interested , click here to learn more about the navigational type of chronometer)
In 2000, the SuperQuartz™ was unveiled by Breitling in its new Grenchen state of the art headquarters ,equipped for manufacturing chronometers in optimal conditions. The SuperQuartz™ , is a movements ten times that of a standard quartz, and was the only electronic movement able to meet the requirements of the COSC. 

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Only Watch Auction Raises a Whopping 6.2 Million Dollars

Its Official - the Only Watch Auction, held on September 23rd, 2011 brought in 6.2 Million Dollars (4.5 Million Euros) to raise funds for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. 
The highest bid went to the the Patek Phillipe Reference 3939A, which sold for 1.4 Million euros (almost 3 times Antiquorium asking Price.) The timepiece's minute repeater tourbillon encased in steel and sporting an enamel dial is the epitome of Patek Phillipe unparalleled craftsmanship.  The Patek Phillipe minute repeater tourbillon powered by a mechanical manual wind movement Caliber R TO 27 PS and COSC featuring two gong chimes activated by a discrete slide piece was up till now only available in platinum and gold making this one of a kind steel version quite unique and desirable.

The De Witt No. 3 – X-WatchConcept watch featuring 535 components  was another big sale bringing fetching $558,381 or 410,000 euro.  This is the 3rd of De Witts experimentation and 3rd in-house movement (Calibre DW 4806)with reversible watches - a concept first inspired by a concrete mixer! The unique addition to this latest De Witt creation was the addition of an X shaped "bonnet"  partially obscuring the watch face and sparking ones curiosity as to what breathtaking  mechanism  lies beneath.  Push pieces situated at the top and bottom of the watch case activate the "bonnet" which smoothly opens with measured speed like the sliding doors of a space ship and  exposes the watch face enabling the rotation of Titanium Grade 5 -used mostly in Aerospace, Medical, Marine, and Chemical Processing and is stronger than pure titanium and is distinctive for its combination of strength and corrosion resistance, (Grades 1-4).  Of course the "bonnet" can be shut again.  Although the "bonnet" is partially concealing the dial, the dial sporting a bi-retrograde hours and minutes on either side of the "bonnet" and a toubillon at the lower part of the "X" remains perfectly visible. Another scintillating aspect to the watch is the fact that it is a Chronograph with a patented Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W.) device activated by a peripheral oscillating rotor.

Other sales included a Van Cleef & Arpels, Poetic Complication “From the Earth to the Moon,” No. 1/1 which sold for 215,000 euros ($292,673).

The Auction was highly successful as Luis Garcia, directeur dr Recherche at the CNRS said, “Thanks to Only Watch, we are going to be able to finance ICE (a program that was started in 2008),” This program brings together 15 leading teams worldwide who work on therapeutic strategies on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, in particular exon skipping, gene and cell therapies.”

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Greubel Forsey Wins Two Awards at Watch Gala Event In India

Greubel Forsey won two prizes at the second "Watch World Awards" at the Jaypee Greens Resort in greater Noida, North India. To receive this award, Greubel Forsey Co-founder Stephen Forsey attended the gala event organized by a well known and  most respected Indian  horology publication.  Greubel Forsey won the prize  for “Limited Edition Watch of the Year” for Invention Piece 2, and also an inaugural individual award for Stephen Forsey's “Special Contribution to Haute Horlogerie”.
The P2 is a wondrous timepiece and an asset to the history of horology.  This remarkable timepiece has four asynchronous tourbillons, comprised of two double tourbillons systems presented head to tail and joined by a spherical differential. The time display is located at the 5'o'clock position. Hours are indicated by a red arrow originating from the Greubel Forsey signature logo. Minutes are marked by a rotating disc. Beneath this display is triple mainspring barrels which allows for a 56 hour power reserve in addition to sustaining the tourbillons. Seconds are discretely displayed at the 10 'o'clock and power reserve at the 11 'o'clock. The tourbillons hold the prominent position on the dials bulging out into the bezel as if the case alone cannot contain their memorizing rotations.
Tourbillons were originally invented in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet to eradicate the effect gravity had on the functioning of the pocket watch. Greubel Forsey has decided to focus on Tourbillons - an extremely complicated function. In a Tourbillon the entire escapement assembly ,comprising of the balance wheel, the escape wheel, hairspring and pallet fork, rotates within a cage.
As Steven Forsey Said, " We chose to concentrate initially on tourbillons as we felt that as there had been relatively little experimentation and innovation in that field in relation to wristwatches, we had a good chance of discovering and contributing something new."

Greubel Forsey has achieved greatness in the horological world by pursuing the science of invention just as the great thinkers of the past centuries. This greatness was acknowledged by an an international panel of judges including renowned Swiss watchmaker Antoine Simonin.  Greubel Forsey's success is not random by any means - read an excerpt from my 2010 blog ,below the You Tube clip, briefly  describing the experimental design of the companies quest for perfection.
Stephen Forsey words in regard to his double win “It’s very exciting for Greubel Forsey to be in India and to receive these prestigious awards from the biggest specialist magazine, Watch World.”

Extract from Blog I wrote before Greubel Forsey first appearance at SIHH 2010.

Greubel Forsey has made great strides in the realms of complicated watches by inventing and reinventing new ways of complicated time display. Last year the Quadruple Tourbillon (image above) was awarded "Best Complicated Watch" at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie Asia. Two other great achievements include the 24 Second Inclined Tourbillon and the Double Tourbillon 30°
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey success is partly due to their methodical scientific approach to the process of watch making. Striving for perfection can potentially lead watch manufacturers on an endless quest, without a specific goal in sight. This prompted Greubel Forsey's introduction of its innovation platform - Experimental Watch Technology or EWT. This empirical approach utilizes experimentation and resulting data to determine the performance of the watch whilst manipulating different variables and verifying the unknown. This approach is time consuming, but extremely effective, and provides Greubel Forsey with a definite edge in watch technology.
EWT has provided Greubel Forsey with the tools to formulate new inventions, two of which are currently in the works: The Binomial, and a cutting edge isochronically stable material used to craft the balance and the spring as well as a spherical Equality Differential harboring its own energy reserve that can offer a constant force to the oscillators.
However, scientific approach cannot vouch for the undeniable aesthetic designs and superb finishing of their timepieces. That aspect is acquired by creative minds and exceptional experience.
I look forward to Greubel Forsey first appearance at this years SIHH commencing on Januar

Monday, September 26, 2011

Two New U-Boat Watches to Surface Soon

Two new Limited Edition U-Boat watches are about to break surface.  The  Golden Crown Arrow is a strikingly large timepiece coming in at a whopping 51mm in diameter and 19.6mm thick and looking more like a submarine gauge then ever. The Golden Crown arrow is about the classiest U-Boat watch yet, probably because its all done up in black and gold (can't go wrong there). The gold screw down cap, which fits above the crown, is a signature U-Boat component adding a ruggedness to the overall image of the watch. An automatic chronograph movement has a 44 hour power reserve and limited to 99 pieces. No word on the price yet.

The second watch is the Classico Titanium IPB Chronograph - the most streamlined U-Boat watch I have seen.  First of all I must admit - I love it.  I think it is the titanium case in a vacuum-deposited IP coating that does it for me. The watch case is not as thick as the Golden Crown Arrow coming in at a slender 16.6mm; however, if you like big,  the large dial 53mm makes up for what is lacking in girth.  The "black on black" hands accentuated by orange sub dial hands and chronograph indicator exude a bold discretion. A high quality Swiss automatic ETA caliber Valjoux 7750 movement provides utmost precision and extreme efficiency. This movement is the preferred choice for many watch brands such as MOMA Designs - which I blogged about last week.  The price for this watch is $5,750 and will be produced in a limited edition of 300.
Both these watches are definitely for people who like big watches which take command of the wrist.

Friday, September 23, 2011

MOMA Designs Watches

Men's Automatic Chronograph Black IP Titanium Case Black Rubber - $2,022.75 (55% off)
I was suitably impressed when I first laid eyes on the MOMA Designs Collections.  As to my nature and my vast knowledge of watch designs, my first reaction is always slightly critical.  What flaw can I see?  Does the watch portray a sense of aesthetic balance?  This watch surpassed my expectations.  All watch designs have a sense of rightness about them - a whole, which is more than the parts of which they are comprised (Gestalt's idea not mine)... and the MOMA Designs Watches sport the entire package - style, efficiency, functionality and supreme precision.
The MOMA watch I have chosen to depict in this blog is powered by the highly efficient Swiss made automatic chronograph ETA Valjoux 7750 Soigne movement - in case you did not know - ETA stands for Elegance, Technology and Accuracy - everything you want from a movement.  The movement is visible via an opening in the dial and and via the scratch resistant Sapphire Crystal Case Back.
A powerful looking watch case with formidable dimensions ensures maximum protection to the movement.  Crafted from black ion plated titanium, the case is highly resilient and corrosion resistant.  In addition, this timepiece is water resistant to 165 feet. which, together with its chronograph function as well as its hand and indices luminescent properties, make this watch an excellent sporting companion. The extra  large rubber strap length of 8.25 inches ensures the watch will fit around many a wrists.
Men's Anniversario Special Edition Automatic Chrono 18k Rose Gold & Black IP Titanium Case Black Rubber - $5,850.00 (55% off)
MOMA Designs Anniversario Special Edition Collection is a Collection with supreme elegance and high efficiency will add class and distinction to any ones image.  A glint of a slim 18k rose gold bezel and matching crown, a peek at the silky smooth black dial with 18k rose gold hands and indices and a long stare at the creamy rubber band only hints at the powerful efficient Swiss made automatic ETA Valjoux 7750 soigne movement that lies beneath. What you may not know is that the watch is water resistant to 330 meters, which makes this watch both elegant and extremely functional around water. The Chronograph complication enables you to determine an interval of time passed between two discrete elapsed time units and a very useful tachymeter is positioned on the inner bezel.  A Tachymeter is a scale which provides the speed of a moving object in conjunction, of course, with the seconds hand. A Tachymeter takes a value determined in less than a minute and converts it into miles per hour.

MOMA watches at the Watchery are reduced in price by as much as 71%.  MOMA Watch Designs make sure the watch you buy is of the highest quality and quality means longevity.  Whether you are a watch collector or looking to find that perfect watch, purchase a MOMA Designs watch and make yourself a deal of a lifetime.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Montblanc Villeret 1858 Pulsographe For a Physicians Use

 Montblanc's contribution to the Only Watch Auction 2011, held tomorrow in Monaco to raise funds for the research and treatment of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, is quite relevant indeed. Beyond the bezel of the lower portion of the watch is a Pulsographe. A Puslographe is a vintage scale on a timepiece, usually displayed in red, which was used in conjunction with a chronograph and  reduced the amount of  time a doctor was required to check the pulse of a patient. The Pulsographe was most helpful in World War I, when a doctor had many soldiers wounded in battle and a limited amount of time.  For instance in a pulsographe calibrated for thirty pulse beats, like the Montblanc Villeret 1858 Pulsographe, a Doctor would feel the pulse of the patient and at the same time depress the chronograph button.  He would then count until thirty beats and stop the chronograph.  The chronograph hand would point to the patients pulse per minute on the pulsographe scale.

The first watch to have this feature was the Heuer Pulsographe.  It was when Charles-Auguste Heuer, son of Edouard Heuer founder of E.Heuer & Compagnie" went to visit his doctor.  The Doctor checked his pulse for the usual 60 seconds. This procedure was slow and often prone to inaccuracies, Charles-Auguste Heuer decided that he could invent a better more efficient way to measure a heart beat.  He set to work and in 1908 invented a Sphygmometer Chronograph.  This Sphygmometer  could measure the heartbeat with greater reliability. (Is the Montblanc then a Sphygmometer?) This Sphygmometer was too costly as a result of the chronograph function, and thus he developed a Pulsographe, which had the scale but no chronograph function.

The Montblanc Villeret  1858 Pulsographe  will sit well around any doctor's wrist.  An 18k gold 39.5mm case is a mere 12.1mm thick and protects a chronograph calibre MB 13.21, which is entirely visible via a Sapphire crystal case back.  The hand-decorated components are polished and finished creating an eye catching performance of precision.  The plates and bridges are crafted in rhodium-plated nickel silver.  The bridges themselves are embellished with bevels that have been manually polished.
 The enamel dial sporting Arabic Numerals reminiscent of vintage medical calibration machines;  a red Pulsographe scale calibrated to 30 pulse beats,  as well as the finely placed sub dials are protected beneath a domed sapphire crystal . At the 2 '0' clock position, a chronograph pusher executes the chronograph function as well as stops and resets it.

Montblanc has portrayed its commitment to fine quality, precision and finishing in its Only Watch 2011.

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

The Watchery Mourns the Loss of Employee, Kazi Benjamin

The Watchery and employees wish to extend condolences to the family and friends of Kazi Benjamin, a cherished employee of The Watchery.  Kazi Benjamin passed on today at the age of 25.

"Kazi, was one of our top employees, and one of my favorite people. He will be sorely missed" said Joseph Levy of the Watchery

Kazi worked as sales representative, answering incoming calls and helping customers with watch questions.  In fact,  Kazi was the sales representative who answered the call when Geraldo Rivera called and purchased a watch for his wife. He would reassure customers, assuage their fears and abate their skepticism about  purchasing luxury watches on the web.  He sold many luxury watches ranging in price up to $100,000.
Kazi, had a sense of calmness about him which pervaded the office and made everyone at ease.  He was funny, quick witted and made people laugh. He was always willing to lend a helping hand, and he cared about other people - really cared.
Kazi had many talents: He was a musician and had an excellent taste in music.  

We at The Watchery are fortunate to have worked with Kazi, and come to know him as an employee and friend

 Kazi.  You will be missed.

de Grisogono Black Forever Collection

Occhio Ripetizione Minuti
 de Grisogono adds a dash of color and a burst of brightness to its latest Black Forever Collection Edition with the introduction of its Instrumento Tondo timepiece . This year de Grisogono will be displaying its "Black Forever" collection at a special showing in San Fransico on September the 26th & September the 27th.  This year will mark the 15th year, de Grisogono has been designing luxury watches and fine jewelry in black diamonds. 

Black diamonds are quite rare. According to geologists, black diamonds came to our earth from outer space. (Source: Astrophysical Journal Letters December 20, 2006) Otherwise known as carbonado diamonds, these diamonds contain trace elements of hydrogen which indicates an origin in a hydrogen-rich interstellar space. Infrared synchrotron radiation at Brookhaven National Laboratory was used to discover the diamonds' source.
Instrumento Tondo RM N56/A
In addition, black diamonds are found only in Brazil and the Central African Republic. In all the worlds mining fields whether it be South Africa, China, India; where 600 tons have been mined, not a single black diamond has been found. Another clue to the extraterrestrial nature of the black diamond is in its make up. The black diamonds Carbonado diamonds are typically pea sized or larger porous aggregates of many tiny black crystals.
Instrumento N° Uno
Early data from scientists Jozsef Garai and Stephen Haggerty of Florida International University, as well as new research support the theory that showing that carbonado diamonds formed in stellar supernovae explosions.
Whatever the source of the black diamonds, their ultimate destination is what really counts in the here and now.  In 1996, Fawaz Gruozi, of de Grisigono, laid his eyes on the 190 carat "Black Orlov" diamond and  was smitten.  He decided to use these rare gems in his jewelry and timepieces.  However black diamonds are fragile and prone to breakage if not handled by a person highly skilled in gems cutting.
To commemorate 15 years of  de Grisogono's use of black diamonds in its jewelry and timepieces, the company has launched a special edition of timepieces named " Black Forever", which includes watches from the brands first watch collection "Instrumento No Uno" to the highly publicized "Meccanico dG"

The Instrumento N° Uno is superbly crafted in stainless steel protected by a highly resilient black PVD coating.  An automatic movement winds the mainspring.  A dual time and date commands center attention upon a black guilloche dial sporting Arabic Numerals and grey dauphine-style hands.  A black rubber strap closes via a de Grisigono butterfly buckle also comprised of stainless steel and coated with black PVD. 36 black diamonds totaling 1.1 carats adds a sophisticated dazzle to complete the look.  

Instrumento N° Uno DF S42
If you have an irresistible yearning for the complete black diamond experience, de Grisogono can assist.  The Instrumento N° Uno DF is an 18k gold timepiece unabashedly smothered in 478 black diamonds equaling no less than 8.7 carats.  Even the black guilloche dial  is set with 365 diamonds.  The black Galuchat (sting ray) strap completes the pebbled look.  This exquisite high jewelry watch is limited to but 10 pieces.  Given de Grisogono's star studded following ,including Jennifer Lopez, Alicia Keys, Naomi Campbell, Salma Hayek, Demi Moore, Eva Mendes and Rihanna, it seems de Grisigono will have no trouble finding customers for its newest Black Forever Collection.

Black Forever Meccanico dG N09
The Black Forever Meccanico (left) is my all time favorite de Grisigono timepiece and I am quite pleased, de Grisogono has chosen to incorporate this model into its Black Forever Collection.  The Meccanico is unique as it displays a digital read out below  the digital time display only utilizing mechanical white mobile microsegments.  Thus it is the mechanical movement of the watch which operates the second digital time zone display.  For an in depth understanding of the movement of this watch - read my blog The Mechanical Digital Luxury Watch. 
 This particular model , limited to 10 pieces, is crafted from highly corrosive resistant and light weight titanium.  As with all de Grisogono timepieces, scratch resistant sapphire crystal protects the dial and ,in most models, the case back. In addition de Grisogono timepieces are water resistant to 30 meters.

The Occhio Rietizione Minuti (top image)  is simply dazzling.  167 black diamonds on bezel and lugs frame a black matt twelve-blade titanium diaphragm dial.  A minute repeater, which is an alarm complication sounds on the hour, quarter and minute on three separate gongs and utilizing a cathedral striking.   The Occhio Ripetizione was an innovative idea, developed on the same principle as a reflex camera. The Occhio Ripetizione Minuti has a twelve-shutter aperture revealing the movement while the watch is striking.  A matt alligator strap affixed via a three ply deployment buckle in 18 k gold coated with black PVD.  This highly unique timepiece is limited to 5 pieces. 

Black is in and de Grisogono, a company on the forefront of fashion and style, has provided.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

The Cricket in Vulcain's Anniversary Heart Watch for Only Watch 2011

The Only Watch Auction 2011 is an incredible opportunity for  fine watch companies to display a unique watch which incorporates individual achievements pertinent to that company.  For example, Vulcain's Anniversary Heart Watch harbors the Cricket movement - a movement unique to Vulcain's heritage - as well as a skeletonized dial - another Vulcain signature.  

If you are unfamiliar with the Cricket movement, it is an alarm function or reminder function specifically designed by Vulcain  for the smaller dimensions of a wrist watch. In this day an age with fancy electronic devices, alarms are taken for granted or even despised. Alarms appear everywhere from $1 digital watches to innovative allusive alarm clocks which actually roll around.  However prior to the quartz revolution, all watches were mechanical and relied entirely on the harmonious sequential functioning of multitudes of working parts.  At first watches displayed the time in increasing precision, then compasses, tourbillons, perpetual calenders, moon-phases, dual time zones and automatic movements increased the functionality and efficiency of the time pieces.  Prior to the early twentieth century, these complications were incorporated in pocket watches, but after Santos-Dumont popularized the wrist watch, pocket watches were laid down in favor of the more handy wrist watch.  Alarm functions were available  in larger pocket watches and with a larger watch case, the capability of producing a louder sound is evident. 
However an effective alarm function in a wrist watch was a quite a challenge to develop.  Being that the watch case is small,  it was hard to produce a loud audible gong which would arouse a heavy sleeper from slumber.. 
An alarm function had three problems within a wristwatch case:
1) Audibility
2) Effecting Dust protection
3) Effecting Water resistance
... then in 1947 the problem was solved and heavy sleepers could rest easy, Vulcain presented the Vulcain Cricket. The Cricket was so loud it could penetrate the dreams and arouse the sleeper. This new alarm function woke up the World of Horology.
So how did Robert Ditisheim of Vulcain resolve the alarm audibility dilemma?  Well as the name suggests, he turned to mother nature. Let me ask you this.  Have you ever tried to fall asleep while a cricket is chirping its nightly song outside your window? Did you hug a pillow to your ear inorder to drown out the noise, but still heard its persistent resonance. AHH! Now you have your answer.
If a tiny cricket could cause such a noise, than surely a wristwatch could do the same. Robert Ditsheim Incorporated a resonance-chamber like that of a cricket by fitting a two-part back to the watch case. The inner back encloses the watch case and serves to generate the sound. A hammer strikes the watch-case ,which oscillates and produces the sound-waves. The outer case has a twofold function: First it permits the sound-generating inner-back to oscillate freely as it has no direct contact with the wearer's wrist. Second it forms a small space between the inner case back which serves as a resonance chamber. Although many Watch Companies have crafted mechanical minute repeaters, none is quite as loud as the Vulcain Cricket.
The Vulcains's Anniversary Heart Watch is a slender mechanical hand wound 12.7mm thick 42mm rose gold case. Being that the watch is hand wound, an oscillating weight (required in most automatic watches) is absent, thereby leaving the exceptionally crafted movement including the skillfully handcrafted main plate, barrel bridge and movement barrel entirely visible beyond the sapphire crystal case back, as well as maintaining the thinness of the watch case.
The Vulcain Cricket sports a 20 second alarm function and a 42 hour power reserve. Ensuring the watch is securely fitted around the wrist, a rose gold buckle is affixed to a black alligator strap.   

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Swatch Group Breaks Ties with Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co's unremarkable watch designs failed to impress Swatch Group who eventually gave the company the boot.  In 2007, Swatch Group founded Tiffany & Co. Ltd, which was was responsible for the development, production and distribution of Tiffany & Co. branded Watches; however the resulting collections were bland and unassuming lacking a certain charm and color.  Where was the Tiffany & Co. which created exquisite jewelry designs dripping with gems and swirling with color?  Where was the Tiffany & Co. who created tender dragon fly broaches with elegant wings and tender craftsmanship? Where was the company who supplied magnificent jewelry to renowned New York Vanderbilts and Astors and whose creations are displayed in museums?   It seems Tiffany & Co. Ltd watches were left out of the creative company loop, and all that remained was a kind of apologetic collection of watches.  Tiffany & Co. can go two ways at this stage, either admitting the company is not ready for the extremely competitive and highly critical watch market and close the watch shop or revamp its collections and create unique  timepieces which actually represent Tiffany & Co. quality.

As per the original statement by Swatch Group, see below, both Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co, were highly optimistic about there vision of a long term alliance.  This partnership failed to such an extent that "Swatch Group and Tiffany Watch Co. LTD will press claims for damages against Tiffany & Co., New York, in compensation for the loss of planned long-term future business."  It seems to me, Swatch Group expected "more" from Tiffany & Co. - A "more" Tiffany & Co did not provide.  Tiffany & Co's watches are not bad watches.  They may suit the taste of some, and the watches would be quite fitting on the sales floors of less prestigious companies, but being Tiffany & Co. (established in 1837), the watches do not live up to the brand.  If their watch brand means to excel, I think they should look to Louis Vuitton,  Harry Winston, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels - companies which have made waves in the world of watches.

Original Statement at Partnership Commencement:

In December 2007 Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co. announced a strategic alliance to further the development, production and worldwide distribution of Tiffany & Co. brand watches. Under the agreement, the new watch company, known as Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd and wholly owned by Swatch Group, will design and manufacture in Switzerland a complete range of high-end luxury watches.
The enormous prestige of the Tiffany & Co. brand and the Swatch Group’s watchmaking expertise and experience in the luxury segment form a powerful platform on which to build one of the world’s top luxury watchmakers.
Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd is a Swiss company. Its products are designed and manufactured in Switzerland and distributed selectively through Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co. retail distribution networks, including monobrand Tiffany & Co. watch boutiques in certain markets outside the United States. (Source:  Swatch Group. com)

Monday, September 12, 2011

De Bethune Only Watch 2011 Sensual Celestial Charm

De Bethune Only Watch seems as though it is a porthole to the heavens.  Unparalleled watch making expertise accompanied by exquisite renditions of a star filled sky make the DB25 a truly unique display of time.  The exact placement of the stars depicted on the dial are in the very same position as the night in Monaco of January 8th, 1297.  The very night Francois Grimaldi, Genoese leader of the  Guelphs, dressed as a Franciscan monk,  captured the rock.  De Bethune's Orion and Gemini Constellations are 14 invisibly set white diamonds, while 91 surrounding stars are touches of applied white gold upon a memorizing flame-blued titanium dial providing a sense of the incredible infinite expansiveness of the universe.
 Looking at the 6'o'clock position, one notices an aperture displaying a solid silver sandblasted hour and minute discs with Roman Hours and Arabic minute discs or wandering hours.  The use of silver as well as the use of both Arabic and Roman Numerals adds a subtle sense of mystery to the timepiece.
The elegant 44mm 18k white gold three body round drum case protects a  precise Cal. DB2105S comprising of a twin self -regulating barrel and a De Bethune silicon-platinum annular balance; main plate and bridges in beveled and hand-polished steel; balance spring with flat terminal curve. In addition, the watch is equipped with no less than 29 jewels, which ensure smooth seamless transfer of operations. The incredible movement is visible via a scratch resistant Sapphire crystal case back. Large hollowed lugs secure an alligator strap which fastens with an 18k white gold signature De Bethune buckle.
If you out bid the competition in the Only Watch Auction, which will be held by Antiquorium in Monaco at the end of this month to raise funds and awareness for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, you will receive this watch in a fitted box accompanied by a Certificate.  Wish price EUR 100,000 - 150, 000 (source  Antiquorium)
De Bethune was established in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet,  with the vision of upholding the watchmaking tradition.  Crafting mechanical timepieces with the aid of cutting edge technological advancements and longstanding watch making craftsmanship, De Bethune has succeeded in making a name among watch aficionados and acquiring 9 patent registrations, 11 in-house calibres validated by intense research. De Bethune has not only succeeded in crafting a timepiece with perfect precision and exceptional craftsmanship, but has created a piece of remarkable beauty and grace.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Jaeger Le-Coultre Raises Funds for Heart Center in Sudan

At the 68th Venice International Film Festival running from August 31st to September 10th, 2011, JaegerLeCoultre ,who has been sponsoring the festival for the last seven years and supplying Jaeger- LeCoulture finest glamor to the stars, has decided to use this opportunity to support a worthy cause.  On September 1st, on the 2nd night of the festival Jaeger-LeCoultre held an exclusive event: "Reverso for Emergency, Jaeger-LeCoultre Helps the Salam Center".
Just as there are ten glittering nights of the 68th Venice International Film Festival, Jaeger-LeCoultre ,with support of celebrities, will finance ten operations at the Salam Center.  The Salam Center was established in 2007 by Emergency Association in Khartoum, Sudan and specializes in children and adults suffering from heart disease.  The center provides these procedures free of charge to patients who otherwise would have no means of paying for their medical treatment. 
In honor of this worthy cause, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a Reverso featuring a red heart as if drawn by the hand of a happy child. The Reverso design is turning 80 this year.  First developed in 1931 at the fervent request of British Officers in India who enjoyed a hearty game of polo but feared damage to the crystal of their timepiece.

As the story is told:

Cesar de Trey, an influential businessman, who was a close associate of Jacques-David LeCoultre visited friends in India.
A polo player approached him, "Sir, I challenge you to create a timepiece that can survive a game of polo with its crystal intact."

This challenge founded the legend of the Reverso. A Patent for Reverso was filed on March 4, 1931: A watch capable of sliding in its base and of turning completely on its axis to turn the crystal inward.

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Corum Admiral Cup Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT

Corum combines supreme elegance & intriguing complications in its latest edition to the iconic Admiral Cup Collection.   This model is quite a far cry from previous Admiral Cup models featuring loud and brightly colored nautical flags emblazoned beneath the bezel.  Keeping with the Admiral Cup tradition, nautical flags are featured beneath the bezel; however quite a bit more discrete.  This down playing of the nautical flags seems to be the newer Admiral Cup trend, perhaps because the actual Admiral Cup international sailing regatta has been a no show for almost a decade.  All due respect to Corum, this is one of the finest Admiral Cup Timepieces I have ever seen.  The iconic twelve sided of the bezel has been softened slightly and crafted from glowing rose gold.  The 47mm dial is spacious sporting an exquisite tourbillon complication and a dual time zone.  The key of Corum is incorporated in the tourbillon movement and seems to unlock time with the rotation of the tourbillon within the signature key cage. The diagonal lines across the dial provide the perception of space on a dial which otherwise may seem cluttered.
Since this is a nautical timepiece, a second time zone is a critical especially if one is traveling across longitudes.  A handy pusher at the 4 'o' clock sets the second time zone, which is visible on a sub dial at the 6 'o'clock position, and just in case one is holed in the bowels of a ship, a day night indicator provides clues to the outside. At the 3 'o' clock position, the day of the month is perfectly placed.
Some say the see through case back is as alluring as the dial, since an exceptional large Corum caliber  CO397 automatic movement is entirely visible via a scratch resistant sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating. 
A power reserve of 50 hours ensures the watch remains ticking off the wrist for at least 50 hours.  The timepiece is water resistant to 50 meters thanks to gaskets and a screw in case back, however 50 meters does limits its uses around too much water; however for $70,000 I would be quite careful where and when I wear the watch.
This watch is also available in aluminum for $47,000 in a  truly handsome  matt black.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Artya Creates "Son of a Gun" for Ultimate Watch Protection Action

Watch companies go to unrepresented lengths to provide watches with ultimate protection, such as utilizing scratch resistant sapphire crystal to protect the dial, using materials such as titanium & forged steel to provide the ultimate resilience and corrosion resistance, using gaskets and screw-in case back to provide water resistance, crafting tourbillons to protect the watch from forces of gravity and utilizing alloy components and cages crafted from highly conductive materials to protect the watch movement from magnetic field.

However Artya has decided on more direct  approach to watch protection with the "Son of a Gun" timepiece.  Weapon enthusiasts will undoubtedly find this watch shooting to the top of their "must have" list.  Merging weapons and horology is a unique idea, although not so far removed as to make the entire concept astounding, after all shooting and hitting a target is all about precision and perfect timing.
  The watch bezel and dial  resemble a target with carved notches at the 12, 9, 6 and 3 'o' clock position. The dial is comprised of six 6mm bullets, which the designer connected using copper wire in a dynamite formation with more copper wire running along the skeletonized ultra sharp watch hands.  My suggestion - don't try bring this watch on a plane- you might have some explaining to do.
The dial of the "Son of a Gun" is protected by high quality sapphire crystal with a water resistance of 50 meters. A sapphire crystal case back reveals the rotor balanced by the backs of 38 mm bullets. I got to say this is one cool watch. 
If you want a unique timepiece you've always got Artya.

Friday, August 26, 2011

GLAM ROCK Rocks Around Your Wrist

Women's Miami- The Watchery Price: $560 (60% off)
The dazzling colorful lifestyle of Miami Beach inspired  Enrico Margaritelli and Isabella Maujean to create a brand new Watch company fusing Miami life,  French glamor and style and excellent quality Swiss Made Movements. The result is Glam Rock, a watch company that simply gets noticed.

One can recognize a Glam Rock Watch by its bold bezel punctuated by four screws. Glam Rock is famous for its amazing stylistic versatility.  If one tires of the bezel color or it simply clashes with an outfit, there is no need to go out and buy a new watch, simply remove the four screws situated on the bezel above and below the dial, and replace the bezel with a Glam Rock bezel in the color of your choice.  By doing this you can change the entire look of the watch. Your friends will wonder how many watches you own, and when you tell them about Glam Rock's bezel changing scheme, your friends will absolutely love the idea and want a Glam Rock Watch.

Since there are so many colors and styles to choose from, there is no worry that your friend will have the exact same watch as you - unless of course you want her too.  (friends forever - you know what I mean) . In addition, Glam Rock has introduced an exciting new click system which allows for the removal of the bezel with a quick click.  Glam Rock watches seem to have quiver with intense energy and a demand for life.  One of the most popular Glam Rock Collection is the Miami Collection, which has hundreds of vibrant colors.  To order your Glam Rock today visit THE WATCHERY for outstanding deals on a watch you will wear.

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Concord C2 Chronograph. Concord's Coolest Collection Yet.

Concord, owned by Movado Group, has finally found the balance between over-the-top futuristic watches and plain boring outdated watches with its brand new new C2 collection.  Don't get me wrong, I think Concord Delirium's, Saratoga's and La Scala's  definitely had a place in the 20th century, but style's change and the world moves on.  On the flip side I think the C1 models ,such as the highly publicized Concord C1 QuantumGravity Tourbillon Watch (see inset left below), born from the new improved Concord Company was a daring adventurous leap from the super slim seriously elegant Deliriums and such. The C1's are bold rugged powerful timepieces built to impress; however, due to the large merging sub dials, the dial seems a bit cluttered and difficult to read.

C1 QuantumGravity Tourbillon
  However looking at the C2, I feel the C2 is definitely a leap in the right direction. Concord has softened the C2 making the lines slightly more fluid and shrinking the sub dials, thus increasing the readability of the dial while maintaining the bold presence of the timepiece without being too overbearing.  The use of a matt black finish adds an elegant simplicity while exuding a sense of powerful resilience.  The entire look of the 43 mm black PVD-treated stainless steel watch whispers unhindered speed and powerful precision.  An ETA 2894-2 automatic mechanical movement powers the watch.  An alluring  red-accented black vulcanized rubber strap promises extreme comfort as it is attached directly to the watch case without the use of lugs or pins.  A folding clasp crafted from black PVD-treated stainless steel securely fastens the Concord C2 to the wrist.  In addition C2 is proudly emblazoned on the case back in no uncertain terms.

Concord has balanced this watch very well. I have a feeling the C2 Chronograph will do very well. Looking forward to see this watch on the market costing $6,500 for the black PVD case and a bit under $6,000 for the stainless steel case. This watch is less expensive than its forerunner - the C1 Collection.

Monday, August 22, 2011

Hublot Oceanographic 4000 for Only Watch 2011

Back in April I blogged about Hublot's Diver watch, which could accompany a diver down 4000m - if a diver could in fact dive to that depth.   In reality a diver cannot . Hublot made this watch as a symbolic gesture to push the limits of rationality and endurance.  One thing is for certain, if the Hublot Oceanographic watch is unwittingly dropped over the side of a ship, it will merrily keep on ticking ,surrounded by inquisitive fish, on the ocean floor since the Hublot Oceanographic can endure the pressure and resist water at a depth of 4000m.   Hublot spent 18 months of intense research and development to create a watch with this type of water resistance and pressure endurance.
The model depicted above is based on the original Diver's Watch and is Hublot's contribution to the Only Watch Auction 2011, to raise charity for the awareness and research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.
For a watch to be presented by a company for the Only Watch Auction it must be either the first watch of a limited edition, or a completely unique model.

Hublot's Oceanographic 4000 timepiece is unique in that it is the very first watch crafted from ultra-technical carbon fiber. The watches colors - bright red with white accents- represent the colors of Monaco's flag. The signature "King Power" 48mm case and bezel is crafted from an attractive and powerful Matt Carbon Fiber.  The Matt Black dial sports bold red  indexes treated with white SuperLuminova, which enables clear dial readout in murky or dark conditions. The dial is protected by Scratch Resistant Sapphire crystal. The watch is powered with precision by HUB1401 automatic movement comprised of 180 components and 23 jewels with a 42 hour power reserve.  The red stitched alligator strap on black rubber accentuates the red on the dial and is affixed to the wrist via a black PVD titanium ardillon buckle. bright red strap complements the red on the

Friday, August 19, 2011

Looking Back at The Concept Watch with No Face

Looking very much like a time portal, the M60M has no watch dial to speak of .  All the time display is in the bezel. This awesome concept designed by Roger Kellenberger in 2007 brought the quest for an uncluttered dial to a whole new level.  I wonder what Nathan George Horwitt, creator of the Movado Museum Watch would think of that.  If you are a stickler for punctuality this watch may not be for you, since the steel and rubber M60M only displays time in full hours and full quarter of an hour.  No seconds and no minutes.  So I bet you are wondering where the movement is located.  Well there is only one place it can be located and that is in the bezel. The hour and quarter of an hour markings are fixed on the bezel and a single rotating marker indicates the time.  The watch is precise, to the quarter of an hour. The strap is also pretty cool with a unique closing system which springs open with a touch of a button.  Roger Kellenberger gave no prospective date the watch will be available for purchase, and still four years down the line the M60M still has not made its debut, maybe he is a bit ahead of time since this watch would look great with those intergalactic space suits.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Iconic Watch Designer Gerald Genta has died

 Gerald Genta, iconic watch designer has died.

Although I never had the privilege to meet him, his exceptional watch designs, such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Timepiece, became the standard to which I base timeless watch design.  In the past I have written numerous blogs about Gerald Genta, as he was one of the first watch makers whose genius caught my attention.   The Horological World will sorely miss one of the greatest watch designers of our time. I would like to extend sincere condolences to his family and friends.  May he Rest in Peace.

In his memory I present links to my Blogs about Gerald Genta and his work.